Afghanistan is a complex country with a complicated past (and present.) If you are considering traveling to Afghanistan as a woman, then you need to read this article. I will cover safety, logistics, and exactly what it was like to visit Afghanistan as a female.
I didn’t know exactly what I would encounter in Afghanistan, but I knew – down to my very bones – that I needed to go there.
As a frequent solo female traveler in the Middle East, my travels had been steadily straying farther and farther off the beaten path. The Middle East is my absolute favorite region to explore, and one that I had spent just shy of a decade traveling through prior to my trip to Afghanistan.
However, my past travels typically carried me through the Gulf region – to Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, and the United Arab Emirates – or to places like Egypt, Morocco, and Jordan.
Afghanistan, undoubtedly, would be different.
Afghanistan: An Introduction
As an American woman, most of what I’d seen of Afghanistan was on shiny Western media screens. Visions of Afghan people clinging to the American jet as it departed in 2021 and depictions of bombings and destruction were the norm.
But those norms told me nothing of the Afghan people – the ones living, working, and raising families there. They told me nothing of what actual daily life looked like.
And that is the crux of why I travel. To learn. To experience the world and see first-hand what these so-called dangerous places are really like.
I’m going to be the first to tell you, traveling in Afghanistan isn’t easy. And, traveling in Afghanistan as a woman is even more challenging. But, with proper planning and guidance, it is possible.
Let me be clear – that does not mean Afghanistan is perfectly safe or that it is a good destination for everyone. Neither of these are guaranteed.
And I’m not writing this to convince you to travel there. Actually, I think it is not yet a destination meant for most travelers, despite the beautiful places to visit in Afghanistan.
Yet would I go back? Wholeheartedly yes.
Afghanistan is raw. It is real and rugged. It’s a country without a solid infrastructure to lean on after generations of war. You have to be adventurous and you have to be flexible to enjoy this complicated country.
Solo Female Travel in Afghanistan: Is It Possible?
For anyone who has been reading This Rare Earth for a while, you already know that I am a serial solo female traveler. I love to explore offbeat destinations alone, with no guide and no tours. I’ve even made a FREE course on the subject.
But in Afghanistan – a country notoriously known for tightening restrictions on women after the withdrawal of US troops – is solo female travel even possible?
Unfortunately no. At least, not in the way that I’ve defined it.
To travel Afghanistan, women will need to have some sort of guide. And the reasons for this are two-fold.
First, in each location that you plan to sightsee, every single tourist needs to register with the Taliban officials upon arrival. To do so, you will almost always need a Dari or Pashto speaker – not ever Arabic will help much here.
If you are not properly registered, you will not make it through the many checkpoints let alone into the mosques and museums you plan to visit.
And second, in 2021 the Taliban decreed that women cannot travel more than 45 miles without a male guardian. While it is reported that foreign women are not always held to this standard, in other instances they are. So, your luck would depend on the mood of the officials you interact with, it seems.
Therefore you should hire a guide to travel Afghanistan as a woman. You can choose to work directly with local Afghan guides or you can join an organized group tour from abroad.
Whichever you choose, do meticulous research to make sure they are properly licensed and have plenty of experience not just in travel, but specifically in Afghanistan.
Let’s connect on YouTube! I’ll be sharing videos of traveling Afghanistan and more.
Safety in Afghanistan for Women Tourists
When the topic of Afghanistan travel comes up, the first question on everyone’s mind is safety. And the answer is a difficult one.
First and foremost, did I – as an American woman traveling to Afghanistan – feel unsafe? The answer is no. I never had a moment where I feared for my physical safety or feared that some bodily hard was coming my way.
However, Afghanistan is a country that carries more risks than most others when visiting as a tourist. And after visiting, I can understand more clearly what these risks are.
First, though rare, there have been attacks on tourists traveling Afghanistan. The most known incident in Bamiyan happened shortly before my own trip. I took about two weeks to research and weigh whether or not to continue with my plans, and in the end I felt comfortable enough to go.
Second, the US Embassy, as well as all other Western embassies, have ceased operations in Afghanistan. No countries from North America, Europe, or the UK currently have an operating embassy in the country.
That means that if anything happens – from injuries to an attack to simply losing your passport – you are probably going to have a very difficult time making it right.
Can you visit Afghanistan as a woman? Yes. But there are certainly more safety concerns or dangers in Afghanistan to consider.
Also, Afghanistan has been in a constant state of fluctuation since 2021. Leading up to my trip, I saw the rules change, and within a week of my return, I saw them change again. So you must stay up to date on rules and safety in each region you plan to visit, as they may change on a dime.
Lastly, the USA, Canada, Australia, and the UK all have Afghanistan listed as a Level 4 or a “Do Not Travel” country. I urge you to read over their pages before making your decision. By governmental standards, Afghanistan is not considered “safe.”
However, as an American woman that traveled to Afghanistan, I did personally and anecdotally feel safe at all times.
What to Wear in Afghanistan as a Female?
Several friends have asked me upon my return if visiting Saudi Arabia as a woman was similar to traveling Afghanistan as a woman. The honest answer is no, not at all.
While in religious areas of Saudi Arabia, I dressed in a similarly conservative way. But that is about where the similarities ended.
In terms of dress, foreign women in Afghanistan should go a bit more conservative than in many other Muslim countries. For me that meant an abaya at all times, a hijab at all times, and rugged enough shoes for the rough surfaces.
Here is exactly what I wore (or a similar match, as I purchased my abayas in Pakistan and in the UAE) in Afghanistan:
- Loose black abaya – buy at least one before you arrive, and then you can always buy others for much cheaper on site.
- Black flower patterned scarf (or other colors) – this one is lightweight and flowy, which I always love for the Middle East, but be aware that it is slightly see-through.
- Solid black scarf – it is great to have one of these on hand to be a bit more inconspicuous at religious sites.
- Rugged sandals – these are the exact ones I have and they were perfect for dirt roads and walking around.
Under your abaya, you can wear whatever you want, within reason. You will still want ankles and legs covered so that nothing is exposed when the wind blows, so pants rather than shorts.
As an example, if it is helpful, I wore lightweight pants like this and oftentimes tank tops in the summer heat. Just make sure your abaya is completely opaque if you go the tank top route.
Though to my knowledge tourists are not mandated to wear abayas and headscarves, I would not have felt comfortable without them as you will undoubtedly stand out regardless. A salwar-kameez could also work.
What Its Like Traveling to Afghanistan as a Woman
I believe that in most cases, countries become “dangerous” or “unsafe” for women when we do not follow the local cultural norms, whether that is in reference to attire; male-female relationships; or religion and traditions.
If you are coming from the west, it is likely that you were raised in a country with very different expectations and standards than are currently placed on Afghan women.
However, if you make a genuine attempt to adhere to the norms in Afghanistan, such as dressing as discussed above and not taking photos of the Taliban or government buildings and checkpoints, you will likely avoid incident.
Here are some things you probably will notice.
Interactions with officials
Most Taliban officials will avoid eye contact with you and will not directly speak to you (that is, if they even speak English.) Instead they will speak to your guide. Note that when hiring a local guide, 100% of the time they will be male.
Honestly, the Taliban officials that I did interact with in any way seemed to be very curious about me. Where was I from? How old was I? Was I married?
Solo female travel in the Middle East is already not a common endeavor. But in Afghanistan, it is even more rare.
My advice is to accept the curious looks and questions, often asked through your guide, and don’t challenge cultural norms by trying to speak directly to the officials (unless they address you directly first.) As someone with a lot of experience adhering to the norms in the Middle East, to me this was easy.
Freedom of movement for women tourists in Afghanistan
As unfair as it is, as a foreign woman you will be allowed more freedoms than local women, though not as many as men, both local and foreign.
For example, local women have major restrictions on entering most mosques, shrines, and parks. While I was allowed into many mosques and shrines, I was barred from one of the most grand in the country. Again, it can very much depend on the mood of the official that day, so be prepared to be flexible and accept things as they are.
Overall I felt that locals were very curious about me, as tourism is not at all common in Afghanistan as you would guess. Many women’s eyes widened in surprise below their hijab when I answered “From the USA” but they were friendly and curious.
I encountered groups and families of local women who, despite the cultural differences, welcomed me with warm smiles. As we exchanged pleasantries, I felt a strong connection with my fellow females, no matter how different our lives may be.
At times you might feel like a spotlight is shining on you, as street children gather around you. Inside some of the mosques, local women will want to take photos with you.
I don’t at all mind answering questions and frankly love to interact with locals, but if it ever gets to feel like you are drawing too big of a crowd, keep it moving. Just keep walking to your destination.
Getting used to cultural norms
If you have never worn an abaya or hijab before, it may take some getting used to.
Draped in a billowing dress on top of your normal clothing and having a headscarf cover your neck and hair can feel restrictive, especially in the summer. Despite the suffocating heat, you will need to be covered anytime you are outside of your hotel.
And, in one instance, I was yelled at by a small boy for sitting at a table on the sidewalk while waiting for the street food I had just purchased. So it seems that women are not allowed to sit outside near the street to eat, but are allowed inside restaurants.
Oftentimes there are separate rooms and tables for women and families, completely surrounded by curtains for privacy. In this instance, you can remove your hijab.
General Tips for Traveling to Afghanistan as a Woman
Having traveled for a full decade within the Middle East, I felt confident in my knowledge of the culture and customs. Yet in Afghanistan, the rules and expectations for female travelers are not as simple as throwing on a headscarf and calling it a day.
Afghanistan is not a “beginner-level” destination. English is not widely spoken (though your guides should be fluent) and some regions may not be safe for travelers of any kind – not just women.
Here are some things to consider that I believe would make it easier to travel semi-comfortably in Afghanistan as a woman:
- You have extensive independent travel experience, specifically within the Middle East.
- You have visited several Muslim countries alone and feel comfortable there.
- When plans go awry or you have to improvise, you are able to keep calm.
- You are willing and able to set your western ideals aside and follow local laws and customs, no matter if you agree with the cultural norms in Afghanistan or not.
- You know that you will most likely stand out and be the center of attention in markets, mosques, and restaurants (at least that was the case for me as a blonde haired and green eyed female.)
- Guns and rifles do not make you uncomfortable.
- You are aware of the lack of western help or reach within Afghanistan, and have researched all of the latest travel news.
- You are willing to remain covered at all times.
Personally, I am so glad I went to Afghanistan and would go back. But, it is hands down the most complicated country I have ever visited.
I cannot in good faith recommend that all women adventure travelers are ready to visit Afghanistan. It depends a lot on your preferences and how risk averse you are.
Final Thoughts
This women’s guide to Afghanistan is based on my first-hand experiences traveling the country. It’s meant to help prepare female travelers to tackle this incredible yet complicated country.
With the media scenes that have dominated the narrative for the past 20+ years, I wasn’t sure if I would get the opportunity to see Afghanistan in my lifetime. I am so glad that I did.
But only you can decide if you are prepared to tackle traveling as a woman through Afghanistan. I hope that this article helps you to determine just that.
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